Caolan Robertson

I’m finally back in Ukraine after a huge trip from the Venice Biennale to Ireland, where I confronted the Russian ambassador and exposed the Russian-owned refinery still operating there.

But coming back here, it honestly feels like I’ve arrived in a different country.

Ukraine has struck Saint Petersburg in front of some of Putin’s favourite influencers, launched one of the largest drone attacks yet toward Moscow, and Crimea is looking less and less like the safe “fortress” Russia always tried to sell to the world.

There’s a real shift in the air here. I’ve been trying to understand it, and to find the right words for what it means. Hopefully this report helps explain that feeling and does it justice.

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