June 16, 2023

As my time in Kyiv is nearing its end, I reflect on the new impressions which have impacted me during my stay in this fifteenth month of war. The biggest one is the continued determination of the people to not only end this war as soon as possible but to end it with a decisive win.

Kyiv

Kyiv, in the early days of the war, was largely empty of people. It still had at least a million people living within its spacious boundary, but they were lost in all this space, an ocean of buildings, and hundreds of miles of streets. However, during my first visit to Kyiv during this war, back in September, many had already returned to the city by that time, and many internally displaced people, too, had chosen Kyiv as their new or temporary home. I must admit that I do not have info on the city’s current population, at least no reliable one, but most sources put it at more than three million, which is an increase over the average of any other previous year. Indeed, the streets are bustling with people and activity. I wrote about this already during one of my previous visits, but now, the traffic jams seem to have become worse.

The stores are still well-stocked with products. This includes grocery stores, as well as building supply stores, electronic retailers, furniture stores, and even car dealerships have seen an increase in their product lineup. Although a number of businesses have closed due to the war, many others have relocated to Kyiv and new ones even opened.

Speaking of products, as I crossed the border from Poland to Ukraine, there were the usual long lines of tractor-trailers, waiting to pass customs. I mean many miles long! There was a large variety of them and even a number of car transporters. Naturally, it’s anyone’s guess as to what sort of products these trucks are transporting, since most are reefers and dry vans, making it impossible to see what’s inside, even if there is military equipment. Don’t worry about the roaches finding out. I’m certain they are aware of this. But, stopping this large continuous convoy in the hope of getting the one or other truck with military gear in it is neigh impossible. And, this was at only one border crossing, mind you. This time I saw no large-sized military gear being shipped for repairs as I did back in September.

As for air attacks, I have experienced exactly two during this visit. The first one, I slept through and missed it completely. The second one occurred this morning, and the sound of distant detonations could clearly be heard. I suppose it was the special greetings for the African delegation, which had arrived in Kyiv. They had to seek shelter in a safe place during the attack. Maybe this will have a positive effect on Ukraine. If those African leaders have any sense of honor and dignity, they should be very upset about this “welcome” from their friends in Moscovia. We’ll see about that.

As I said above, the Ukrainian people’s will to continue the fight is unbroken. As a matter of fact, it has become more entrenched. Especially May was a bad month for the Ukrainians, but, each attack on Kyiv and other Ukrainian cities only increases this determination. And, it also creates anger and hate. It all has become very deep-seated. If there are any pro-ruskie sentiments left in anyone, he or she keeps it a tightly guarded secret.

I visited the place in front of St. Michael’s Golden-Domed Monastery last week. There was a small collection point for donations, manned by a male and female soldier, who both spoke English. I was immediately treated with great friendliness by them when they found out that I am American, and they thanked America for all the help. A civilian lady nearby, who noticed all of this, put her hands together as in prayer and told me, thank you, America! Thank you so much! There was a lot of emotion in her tone of voice. Another lady, quite old and surely of deep Soviet-era vintage, started talking to me like a waterfall and with much enthusiasm. She only stopped when one of the soldiers told her that I don’t understand. The elderly lady wanted to convey to me all the appreciation she had for our help and the evilness of russia. Anyhow, this is the sort of thankfulness that you can find in the city.

Another aspect of the combative spirit is when you make a toast. The Ukrainians usually make several toasts during a gathering, like in a restaurant or with family. One is for love, one for women, one for men, and so on. Now, a new toast is always present; one for victory.

I’ve also noticed an increase in the use of the Ukrainian language. Even if some people still communicate mainly in Russian, as they are used to it since their childhood, it is common for even them to greet, say goodbye, say thank you, and so on in Ukrainian. This tendency has increased since my last two visits to wartime Ukraine.

In conclusion, I don’t want to downplay the horrors happening in other places of this tortured country by illuminating the spirit and other positive aspects of Kyiv. This city is very well protected from the crime syndicate’s constant attacks, but, after all, it’s the heart of Ukraine, the largest city by far and the cultural and economic center of the nation. Even so, the other people in the combat zones, and especially the country’s soldiers, are never forgotten. The thought that many good people are dying every day puts a damper on the happiness of every gathering with family and friends. Indeed, the war puts an ever-present gloomy veil over everyday life, even here, where it is very easy to forget that Ukraine is still fighting for its very survival.